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Banchan

Banchan

Season 1 Episode 5
11:20
The Migrant Kitchen

The Migrant Kitchen

Season 1 Episode 6
52:07
 Beet Pibil with Yellow Beet, Achiote, Pickled Onion and Bitter Greens. A dish from Ray Garcia's Broken Spanish | Courtesy of Life & Thyme

Alta California

Season 2 Episode 2
26:40
Chicken Tikka Poutine | Courtesy of Life & Thyme

Badmaash

Season 2 Episode 3
26:40
A dish from Wolfgang Puck using fresh fish from Seiichi | Courtesy of Life & Thyme

Omotenashi

Season 2 Episode 4
26:40
Cassia's pot au feu | Courtesy of Life & Thyme

Beyond Pho

Season 2 Episode 5
26:40
Pastrami sandwich at Wexler's | Courtesy of Antonio Diaz MKs3

The Jewish Deli

Season 3 Episode 1
26:40
Noriko Kamei | Still from "The Migrant Kitchen" Sequoia Sake MKs3

Sequoia Sake

Season 3 Episode 2
26:38
Pozole broth being poured tableside at restaurant El Jardin. | Still from "The Migrant Kitchen"

El Jardín

Season 3 Episode 3
26:40
Chef Brandon Jew | Antonio Diaz MKs3

Mister Jiu's Chinatown

Season 3 Episode 4
26:40
Labneh from Dyafa | Jim Sullivan MKs3

Man'oushe

Season 3 Episode 5
26:40
Lou Dogg's Crispy Chicken Skin from EP & LP | Antonio Diaz MKs3

Louis & Jazz

Season 3 Episode 6
26:29
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The Migrant Kitchen

The Migrant Kitchen 1-Hour Special

Season 1 Episode 4

Los Angeles’ booming food scene is being shaped by a new generation of chefs. Visit almost any kitchen in Los Angeles and it is likely you will find a migrant chef combining ethnic cuisines with new flavors and techniques. And often within the food, is a story of their migration.

“The politics of migration, the labor economy, all that drama plays out in the restaurants that we go to,” says journalist and author Rubén Martínez

This is seen even at Los Angeles’ premiere restaurants like Providence (recently named the top restaurant in Los Angeles), where Chef Michael Cimarusti has created one of the most elegant and sought after dining experiences in Los Angeles. Behind his kitchen doors you’ll meet Guatemalan Kitchen Manager Jorge Dugal whose account of struggle and survival is not unlike his peers who left everything behind for a chance to find a better life in the United States. Eleven years ago, he managed to escape from the horrific gang violence and pressure that continues to plague his native Guatemala. Despite all this, he has been able to cling to the better memories he had in Central America and recreate his grandmother’s chirmol sauce from memory, which is now the backbone and inspiration for a spot prawn and chirmol dish on Cimarusti’s prestigious menu. 

Jorge Dugal is not alone. In “The Migrant Kitchen” we meet several such chefs whose unique stories of struggle and survival are intricately intertwined with the food they create and serve. Shortly after migrating to the United States, Yong Jun and his mother opened Jun Won, one of Koreatown’s most famed restaurants, frequented on any given night primarily by Korean immigrants along with a handful of food savvy Angelenos. When faced with scrupulous landlords and an unstable lease agreement, however, they struggle to keep their business afloat after twenty-two years. Similarly, street vendor Enrique Peralta, who found his place in Los Angeles’ street food scene selling what critics call some of the cities best chiccarrones, faces the daily threat of being closed down and his equipment being confiscated for illegal street vending. Throughout the uncertainty of the day-to-day, Peralta continues to provide for his family making what Street Gourmet LA’s Bill Esparza deems as artisanal chiccarrones.

Other featured chefs have found food as a way to link back to their cultures while gifting a piece of their tradition to the Los Angeles food community. With her newest venture, Logmeh LA, Chef Deb Michail shares her family’s unique Middle-Eastern cooking traditions to create an experiential dining experience where guests can gather around an open flame and partake in a whole goat roast. Always cooking for a full house, Chef Michail credits the success of Logmeh LA to the knowledge she gained working alongside chefs such as Mozza’s Nancy Silverton to Angelini Osteria’s Gino Angelini. We also meet Claudia Armendariz of Chiles Secos, known to serve the best mole in Los Angeles, whose grandfather opened the stand in Grand Central Market to offer the community a familial sense of home. For many years, the late purveyor and his granddaughter have brought imported Hispanic products, including mole pastes, dried chiles, spices, beans, and grains to the people of Los Angeles. 

Across the city, it is not uncommon to find the children of migrants following in their parents footsteps, and using food as a way to stay true to their heritage. Iconic Filipino chef Alvin Cailan, who started Eggslut out of a food truck in a year, is using his success to pave the way for emerging second generation immigrant chefs with his incubator Unit 120. Here you’ll meet Isa Fabro who says her parents never wanted her to speak Filipino, but one thing they always had was the food. The Filipino inspired pastries she creates at Unit 120 link diners with her Filipino heritage. The same can be said for LASA’s Chad and Chase Valencia, who, with a deep knowledge and connection to the historical context of Filipino food, are using the bounty they find here to create California inspired Filipino cuisine. 

In each kitchen is a personal story, and in Los Angeles, a city built on immigration, the journeys of migrants are constantly transforming the city’s landscape. By combining customs from their old country with the new, the inhabitants of Los Angeles are forging a new culture unique to the city. It is through this exchange and combination of traditions, according to Martínez, that “great cities are made.”

Support Provided By
Season
Brooklyn: Korean Food
26:47
Brooklyn chefs Jenny Kwak and Sohui Kim carry on traditions of female-driven Korean food.
Houston: African American Foodways
26:47
Chefs Chris Williams and Jonny Rhodes uplift African American foodways in Houston, Texas.
Puerto Rico: Food Sovereignty
26:47
Puerto Rican chef José Enrique creates opportunities for a more self-sufficient island.
Portland: Russian Food
26:50
Chef Bonnie Morales celebrates her Russian roots, as well as the Pacific Northwest bounty.
Los Angeles: Taiwanese Food
26:48
In San Gabriel Valley, chef Jon Yao marries Taiwanese traditions with unique ingredients.
Lou Dogg's Crispy Chicken Skin from EP & LP | Antonio Diaz MKs3
26:29
Jazz Singsanong of Jitlada Thai and Louis Tikaram of E.P. & L.P. transport the palate around the world with the complex flavors of Thai cuisine.
Labneh from Dyafa | Jim Sullivan MKs3
26:40
Two extraordinary women of Palestinian descent, Reem Assil and Lamees Dahbour, use food to bring their misunderstood homeland closer to Western tolerance and acceptance.
Chef Brandon Jew | Antonio Diaz MKs3
26:40
With the rapid gentrification of the neighborhood, the face of the country’s oldest Chinatown is changing while a younger generation holds on to the traditions and flavors of the past.
Pozole broth being poured tableside at restaurant El Jardin. | Still from "The Migrant Kitchen"
26:40
Inspired by the traditions of generations of Mexican women and combining regional heirloom ingredients from across Mexico, Claudette Zepeda-Wilkins takes a huge risk to elevate the cuisine in her hometown.
Noriko Kamei | Still from "The Migrant Kitchen" Sequoia Sake MKs3
26:38
Rooted in the traditions of Japanese sake brewing, Sequoia Sake works to resurrect an heirloom rice in California and pioneer the young but growing craft sake movement in the U.S.
Pastrami sandwich at Wexler's | Courtesy of Antonio Diaz MKs3
26:40
The Jewish Delis of Los Angeles serve an important role for connecting heritage to food. Discover the delis that make up the fabric of Los Angeles life.
Cassia's pot au feu | Courtesy of Life & Thyme
26:40
Cassia in Santa Monica, Good Girl Dinette in Highland Park, Red Boat Fish Sauce, and Minh Phan of Porridge & Puffs are hoping to demonstrate that there’s so much more to Vietnamese culture than banh mi, spring rolls and pho.
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