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Sasoun Bakery Serves Up Thin, Round Bites of Home for L.A.'s Armenian Community

David Yeretsian, an older man wearing a purple polo and a paper diner hat, uses a pizza peel to transfer lahmajune onto a stainless steel table where rows and clusters of lahmajune sit. The lahmajune are thin, round pieces of dough topped with minced meat and minced vegetables, resembling a pizza without cheese on top.
David Yeretsian of Sasoun Bakery transfers freshly baked lahmajune, a thin, round piece of dough topped with minced meat and vegetables, on a table to cool. | Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County
David Yeretsian of Sasoun Bakery shares the story of how he came to open up his bakery, the connection he feels to his community and how lahmajune is Armenian comfort food.
By Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County
April 19, 2022
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This article is presented in partnership with the Natural History Museum's "Kneaded: L.A. Bread Stories," a project that celebrates L.A. history, heritage and communities through the lens of bread.

Sasoun Bakery is renowned among the L.A. Armenian community for its authentic recipes and fresh, delicious lahmajune. The 37-year-old bakery was founded by David Yeretsian. To this day, he enjoys watching his customers take that first bite of lahmajune and be won over by his family's recipe. We sat down with Yeretsian and he shared the story of how he came to open up his bakery, the connection he feels to his community and how lahmajune is Armenian comfort food.

Tell us about yourself.

David Yeretsian of Sasoun Bakery is wearing a deep purple/red polo and a paper diner hat on his head. He's standing next to a stainless steel table with a tray of lahmajunes sitting on top. The lahmajunes are thin, round pieces of dough topped with a red-brown sauce made of minced meat and vegetables. Also on the table is flour, a bucket, a red hat with the Sasoun Bakery logo embroidered on and other ingredients. Behind Yeretsian is a stack of brown sacks full of dry ingredients, presumably flour.
David Yeretsian opened Sasoun Bakery in Hollywood in 1986 and now has five bakeries in the Los Angeles area. | Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County

I was born in Sasoun in 1940, which was historically in Armenia but is present-day Turkey. I lost my mother to illness at the age of two. When I was five, my father moved my sister and me to Syria. We lived in a small village and didn't have money growing up. I worked in many different trades to earn a little bit of money to help feed the family. There were not many options available for work when winter came along, so I decided to work at a local bakery. I worked twelve-hour days and got valuable experience and training. That was my first experience with baking at the age of eighteen. It was tough, but I needed to help make ends meet for my family.

In 1958, I opened up my first bakery in Syria. But in 1968, due to hardships — specifically for the bakers — I left, moved to Beirut, and immediately opened another bakery. Then in 1980, I opened my second bakery. In 1985, due to the civil war, I decided to leave everything behind and move to the United States. I left my bakeries to my siblings and started over, again, in Los Angeles. In 1986, I opened my first bakery in Hollywood, and today, we have five bakeries in the Los Angeles area.

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What inspired you to get started in Hollywood?

David Yerestian uses an industrial machine to flatten thin, round pieces of dough for making lahmajune. Another staff member in the foreground is seen mixing minced vegetables in a plastic bin.
Lahmajune dough is flattened throughout the day at Sasoun Bakery. | Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County

In 1985, Hollywood had a large Armenian community with many Armenian schools and churches — so we wanted to be close to our community. Our first bakery was originally a pizza shop, so it didn't take much to get it ready to open up Sasoun. There were a few failed businesses before us there, but I believed this was the right spot for us. We took our chances, and fortunately, things worked out very well.

What do you love most about baking lahmajune?

David Yeretsian lays a minced meat mixture on flattened pieces of lahmajune dough at Sasoun Bakery.
David Yeretsian lays a minced meat mixture on flattened pieces of lahmajune dough at Sasoun Bakery. | Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County

Lahmajune is a food that is made of basic ingredients that we all know and love but made with a lot of care and passion. I love seeing the smile on our customers' faces when they first try our freshly made lahmajune; they are won over on their first bite.

What memories or emotions arise while making lahmajune?

David Yeretsian, founder of Sasoun Bakery, scoops minced vegetables on thin, round pieces of lahmajune dough.
To this day, David Yeretsian, founder of the 37-year-old bakery, plays a very active role at Sasoun Bakery. | Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County

Making lahmajune takes me back to the early days of moving to the U.S. — when times were tough, and my family's future was uncertain. My wife, four daughters, and I moved to the U.S. in search of a safer life. And seeing our lives and our bakery grow has certainly made us all happier. My wife's words are always with me — she said, "I will stand with you as long as you need me, and together we will make it through this." Together, we are now loving life in the U.S. and enjoying sharing a little bit of our culture with our wonderful community.

My wife's words are always with me — she said, 'I will stand with you as long as you need me, and together we will make it through this.'
David Yeretsian, founder and owner of Sasoun Bakery

How do you think lahmajune binds people in the community together?

David Yeretsian, wearing a purple/red polo shirt and a paper diner hat on his head, stands next to a stainless steel table covered in freshly baked lahmajune, thin, round pieces of dough topped with minced meat and vegetables.
David Yeretsian of Sasoun Bakery stands in the kitchen where lahmajune are made fresh every day. | Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County

Our lahmajune is made from a traditional family recipe that has been delighting people for many years. It is the food that our community counts on and looks forward to on all occasions. Whether they are celebrating an event or just need something familiar to comfort them, the community has always turned to Sasoun for its lahmajune. In return, Sasoun has welcomed people into our family. We are passionate about giving back to our community and helping out our loyal customers wherever possible.

To see what baking at Sasoun Bakery, check out their Facebook page and explore their five locations in the L.A. area.

What's your L.A. Bread Story?

Know an L.A. breadmaker that lovingly connects to your community, or want to share your favorite experience at Porto's? Join the conversation by tagging @NHMLA with #KneadedLA, and your story could be featured next!

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